EXPERT REVIEWS

The Independent - When you walk into Maison Bab, immediately in front of you is a large open kitchen. Those dining alone or in pairs can sit at the counter and watch meats being carved, breads being baked and sauces being dolloped. Most diners eat in this room, which is brighter and more airy than you might expect given the cuisine. Things are slightly odder downstairs, where a fine-dining zone sits behind a replica facade of a high street kebab shop. read more
Design My Night - Decor-wise, it’s non-threateningly edgy. You know the drill, custom pink neon lights, an array of cheeseplants and a bit of lofty industrial piping. Sit down at a proper table should you so desire, or perch on the bar next to the open kitchen to watch the chefs twizzling their shawarma over the hot coals. We couldn’t really decide between the starters so went ahead and ordered pretty much all of them. The unctuously fatty Herdwick mutton curry, slow-cooked on the bone with Iranian prunes, was a lip-smacking dish and the charred tenderstem broccoli, smothered in almond and hazelnut Iskender sauce, a glorious ode to this king of the vegetable world. read more
Foodism - Bangin' 'babs, courtesy of the team behind Soho superstar Le Bab. But these aren't the kind of kebabs that are eaten drunk and best forgotten; these are sell-your-soul good kebabs, a holy trinity of ethically sourced meat, seasonal ingredients and pillowy flatbreads that will last long in your memory – but not on your plate. Maison Bab has all the essential elements of its Carnaby Street-based sibling, but with a slightly more casual spin; where Le Bab is small and intimate, Maison Bab is bigger, noisier and full of neon pink accents. Think Le Bab for dates; Maison Bab for mates – although they both work well for either. read more
London On the Inside - Stephen Tozer and Ed Brunet, the pair behind Soho’s Le Bab have opened a sister site Maison Bab in Covent Garden. Whilst by no means massive, it’s a significantly bigger restaurant than the original and they’ve nailed the Millenial interiors with pink neon, patterned tables, green banquettes and a very jazzy floor. If you’ve been to Le Bab you’ll be familiar with the menu, though it’s not a carbon copy of the Soho site. There are more rustic and bolder dishes on show here, like the doner beignets, moreish lamb and beef nuggets with both garlic and chilli sauces, which do evoke the taste of a doner kebab, only with added deep-fried goodness.  read more
The Nudge - This is Maison Bab. You’ll find it in Covent Garden opposite temper and abutting the Hawksmoor Seven Dials. The venue itself is a two floor affair, sporting a grand open kitchen upstairs with a bar wrapped around it, as well as some racing green dining booths, and a huge neon sign dominating the main wall. Downstairs, things get more interesting with a sort of indoor ‘courtyard’ surrounded by blush pink seating and a second cocktail bar, and all hemmed in by a pair of fake shopfronts containing both the second open kitchen and the secret second restaurant. read more

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